Windows 11 pro 圆4 (Yes, it's genuinely a good OS) Razer Huntsman TE (custom white and steel keycaps) Logitech G Pro wireless + Steelseries Prisma XL Logitech G560 |Razer Leviathan | Corsair Void pro RGB |Blue Yeti micĬorsair HX 750i (Platinum, fan off til 300W) Galax RTX 3090 SG 24GB: Often underclocked to 1500Mhz 0.737vĢTB WD SN850 NVME + 1TB Sasmsung 970 Pro NVME + WD AN1500 1TB + 1TB Intel 6000P NVME USB 3.2 Ryzen R7 5800X (PBO tweaked, 4.4-5.05GHz)ĮK Quantum Velocity AM4 + EK Quantum ARGB 3090 w/ active backplate.
Good news though, should you just go analog, and NOTHING sent digital, your sound card will decode and send through the right speakers through analog, so hook up the 3-4 3.55mm to RCA to a home theater amp, and ditch digital completely and listen to what you been missing But if you do not see this as a option to choose from in your games settings/sound config, its all simulated unless you go analog 100% to and from. Only a Console game and unit, can encode and decode in true DD/DTS and send the correct signal to the home theater receiver under DD/DTS/DTSES/HDDDDTS/Atmos/DTSX for all movies and games. In sound options there is no setting for that or compression, just vol rockers and such, and your output is HDMI/Coax/Optical/Spdif, it will then be in 2.0, that DDL will decode into a SIMULATED surround sending that signal, to be processed as Dolby Digital/DTS by your receiver, and ONLY way around this problem, is to go with true 7.1 analog out of your sound board of choice.
In sound options, game lets you choose 5/7.1 you can then DDL those games in TRUE surround to your home theater receiver.
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